Yuzo Fukushima, head of Musashi Winery, laughs as he recalls, “I started farming pretty much on a whim, almost recklessly.” Yet behind those lighthearted words lies a fierce passion—a drive to break free from convention and uncover the true essence of grape cultivation that no one else had achieved.

In this interview, we explore Fukushima’s remarkable journey and his unique philosophy of cultivation.
Interview conducted on February 2, 2025 — Interviewer: Masaya Nagakura

“Farming Started Out of Desperation”

Thank you for taking the time to speak with us today. To start, could you tell us how Musashi Winery came to be?

Thank you. Honestly, I started farming almost out of desperation. Nothing I tried seemed to work, and I thought, “Fine, then I’ll dive into the toughest, most thankless industry of all.” That’s how I ended up choosing agriculture. Even now, I sometimes wonder why on earth I took on something this hard—it really is the toughest job there is! (laughs)

In that case, why did you decide on a winery specifically?

最低最悪の農業を活かすものとして、行き着いたのがワイナリーだったんです。ブドウという最高の原材料を作って、それを活かせるもの、それがワインでした。最初は国の補助金なんかも視野に入れていたのですが、僕がやろうとした時は流れに乗れなくて、結局このワイナリーも借金まみれで建てました。これ「借金の館」ですよ（笑）。

The Challenge Begins in Ogawa Town, 2011

You planted your first grapevines here in Ogawa Town in 2011. Why did you choose this location?

Ogawa Town is known as the “Village of Organic Agriculture.” I originally came planning to do a year-long training in organic farming under Mamoru Kuwahara, but after about six months, they said I was done—so I graduated early.

Before Musashi Winery, you worked at Musashitsuru Sake Brewery. Was it difficult to obtain a brewing license?

Yes. Without brewing experience, it’s nearly impossible to get a license. If you start making sake without one, it counts as illegal production—and then you could never get licensed for life. So I worked at Musashitsuru as a brewer and eventually became a toji (head brewer). That experience built enough trust that even the tax office invited me to give lectures, which made my license application go smoothly.

Overcoming Adversity

What has been your greatest challenge so far?

Oh, I’m still facing challenges every day! (laughs)

If we talk about past hardships, there was a time long ago when heavy snow completely destroyed all the grape trellises. When I saw the photos on Facebook, I thought even Fukushima-san must be finished—but he bounced back, and that’s when I truly thought of him as an iron man.

Ah yes, that happened too.

Are your vineyards still expanding today?

We expanded quite a bit, but since wine sales are the key to survival, I’ve paused further growth for now. The vineyards now cover 4.6 hectares. I actually forgot to plant some white grape varieties at first and had to scramble to add them later!

“Natural Cultivation” — Aiming for the World’s Best Grapes

Your wines have an amazing reputation. Is there something special about your growing method?

Thank you. I genuinely believe I might be growing the best grapes in the world. What I practice is “natural cultivation”—no pesticides, no fertilizers. It goes beyond organic farming. I rely on the plant’s own growth hormones and natural vitality.

By not using fertilizers, does that mean you are practicing green manure cultivation? (The interviewer seeks to clarify whether “no fertilizers” includes using natural, plant-based methods like green manure.)

Yes. Green manure basically means cutting down grass and leaving it on the field to decompose naturally. We don’t bring in any external fertilizers; everything we use comes from the field itself, circulating nutrients within the soil. We never import organic fertilizers from outside.

肥料は、植物にとって人間でいう「精力剤」のようなもので、根本的にはそんなに多く要らないものなんです。三大栄養素と言われる窒素、リン酸、カリウムは、実は植物の成長ホルモンにはほんの少ししか含まれていません。肥料は、植物を一時的に元気にさせるだけで、根本的な力は引き出さないんです。

Trellises vs. Overhead Arbors

Most vineyards use trellis systems, but Musashi Winery uses the traditional Japanese overhead arbor. Why is that?

It’s true that Japan’s high humidity makes the arbor style more suitable, but the real reason is to let the vines reach their full potential. In trellis cultivation, the shoots are usually trimmed at about 1.5 meters—a process called tekishin, or pinching off the tips. But my method is the opposite: I let the shoots keep growing—10 meters, even 20 meters if they want.

What happens when you let the branches grow that long?

When the branches grow long, the roots grow just as deep. Strong roots mean strong vines, and strong vines don’t need fertilizer. It’s when the roots are weak that the plants become vulnerable to disease—and that’s when people turn to pesticides.

The Truth About Seedless Grapes

Seedless grapes have become mainstream recently. Does that affect winemaking too?

When you pinch the tips in trellis cultivation, the vine releases a substance called gibberellin—a kind of “negative growth hormone” that weakens the plant. Seedless grapes are made by artificially applying gibberellin. That’s why they’re not truly flavorful. They sell because they’re “easy to eat,” but people mistake convenience for taste. In truth, grapes with seeds are far more delicious. Seedless varieties also tend to have lower sugar content, so wineries have to add sugar during fermentation. We grow Delaware grapes with seeds—and that’s what makes our wines genuinely rich and flavorful.

The Responsibility of Keeping the Company Alive

What’s your vision for the future?

My top priority is simple: not to let this company go under. I’m an engineer by background, not a businessman. But once you start something, you can’t just walk away. I want to pass the baton to the next generation—to make sure this winery keeps going long after I’m gone.

Lastly, could you share a message for our readers at Hikidashi LLC?

You often say things like “Let’s collaborate” too easily. If you truly want to collaborate, first build your own strength. Become a company that others want to collaborate with—one that makes people proud to say, “Please, let us work with you.” Only then can something truly good be born between us.

Thank you. I’ll take that to heart and keep working hard.

About the Author

Masaya NagakuraRepresentative Partner & CEO, Hikidashi LLC

Masaya Nagakura is the founder and representative of Hikidashi LLC.
Before launching the company in May 2021, he spent over 20 years in management as a founding member of Eco Design Co., Ltd.
Today, he is fully dedicated to making the Hiki region shine.

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